Skinny pigs are a type of hairless guinea pig. Currently there are two varieties of hairless guinea pigs– Skinny pigs and Baldwins. Hairless guinea pigs have the same basic needs as a regular guinea pig with a few exceptions.

The Skinny pig breed appears to have come from a natural mutation in a gene of the hair follicles that inhibits proper growth. This gene is common in many mammals. Hairless cats (Sphynx) and many of the hairless dog breeds share this natural occurring mutation. Skinny pigs are born hairless, but do have some hair on the head and or feet. They have a velvety feel when petting them.

The Baldwin breed is hairless as well but with some important differences. Baldwins also appeared naturally and were first recognized in a breeders herd. They now believe that the hairlessness may have something to do with the thyroid gland. It should be noted that Baldwins have been proven healthy animals. Baldwin’s are born with hair, unlike skinny pigs. They lose this hair over several months. They are not sick this is a natural process for them. A mature Baldwin often times have less hair than a skinny pig. They are the only breed where individuals can be truly hairless with absolutely no hair on the body.

We at Skinny Pig of New England breed Skinny pigs and do not currently have Baldwins available. Hairless guinea pigs need to be kept indoors. They can go out doors for some play time but please keep them in the shade as they can and will burn.  (sun block can be toxic please do not put it on your skinny pig) They should be kept in temperatures of 65 F – 75 F. Polar fleece sleep sacks should be provided for extra warmth. Having more than one cavy becomes even more important with hairless guinea pigs as they not only do better with a friend, but also gain extra warmth from the other guinea pigs. Furry guinea pigs can be housed with hairless ones.  They are very social animals which allows them to live in small herds. The most enriching thing a owner can provide for there guinea pig is a friend. Hairless guinea pigs have a faster metabolism to keep them warm and this means they eat more. You need to keep on top of their food, checking daily to make sure pellets and timothy hay are always available. You also need to offer fresh vegetables once a day. Eating more means cleaning more. Hairless guinea pigs need to be cleaned more often than a furry guinea pig. Where a furry one may only need to be changed weekly a hairless will need to be changed twice a week. We would like to point out that their is no difference in smell or size of poop, just more of it. Owners have reported no notable differences, just that they will mess their cages more quickly. Temperament of hairless is probably one of the most interesting things besides the lack of hair. A surprising difference is how much more social with humans they are. Owners report that it is the skinny pig that always comes out of the sleep sack begging for attention. They love being with their people and seem to really enjoy their cuddle time. They are very inquisitive and love to explore new environments. They learn very quickly and with food rewards can be taught to go through simple large plastic tubes in a specific order. Although that is not why most people want a hairless guinea pig, it is the cuddle factor that seems to capture the hearts of their owners.

I recommend starting with a 3ft x 6ft plot. That is more than enough space to plant several rows of different types of plants. If the plot has grass growing on it you will need to turn the soil to create your planting bed.  Start with a can of landscaping paint (spray paint ) and out line your bed.  Then using a shovel and pitchfork turn the soil. This means to dig up the grass shake out the dirt from its roots, discard the grass,  and use the pitchfork to aerate the soil by turning it. You will need to purchase about 5-10 bags of compost or moo do from your local nursery. When you get home you will spread the compost on your new bed and turn it in with your pitchfork. I recommend doing this once a year to a vegetable bed as the soil can quickly be depleted of important nutrients depending on what you grow.  Adding a border to your bed is important it keeps people and weeds out.  It does not have to cost alot of money, rocks fond around the property can be piled up on the outline to create your border.

With the planting bed prepared it is time to think about what you will want to plant.  All lettuce,kale,spinach and dandelion greens are great foods for your skinny pigs. Many of these can be harvested and resown. I like to plant rows of greens several weeks apart so that there are always greens ready for harvest and once they are harvested you can replant for a new crop.  That mean the first row may be plant three weeks earlier than the last row. Once your greens are chosen you will want to create your rows and and sow your seed. Follow the directions on the seed packets.  remember to space your rows at least 1 to 1 1/2 ft apart. After Sowing water regularly until you see the seedling sprout at this time you will want to thin your seedlings.  Many people do not follow this advice but if you do not thin your plants will be crowded and not reach full size. The seed packet will let you know how many seedling to thin out by telling you how far apart the plants should be. At this point it is a matter of keeping them well watered (but not drowning them) and keeping the veggie loving animals from eating your fine crops.  There is a huge selection of getting and sprays that are designed to keep the bunny’s at bay. You may have to use a combination of produce to figure out what works on your bunny’s.

The harvest can happen quickly one day they may not be ready and the next they can bolt and all need to be gathered before becoming over ripe. I like to pick the older outer leave once they are large enough and feed them to the piggies the plant will continue  to grow provide you with tons of greens for your skinny pigs. even though you have grown these plants your self I still believe in washing all veggie products really well before feeding them to your skinnys.

If you run in to insect or disease problem there are loads of products and home made remedies that are organic and piggie safe so do not lose hope if you spot a bug.  Just go to your local nursery and they should be able to help you fix your problem in a safe organic way. Good luck and remember to have fun growing your own vegetables  is a great way to do something really healthy for you and your pet.

Critter Care reminder

We have tried this device and it really works. The kids who tested it, ages five to nine, have not missed a feeding and although cage cleaning was something that they needed help with it was a great reminder to do so.

It was not as easy to program as it could be, it is worth taking the time and reading the directions. Once you have it set up you will love it. It does have a preprogrammed schedule that you can use if you do not want to bother with customizing it.

Once you have it set it has cute cartoon characters to pick from we selected a guinea pig of course. The character comes on screen and speaks to the kids by saying that they are hungry  and need a snack or that the cage is dirty. The appropriate button with a light stays lit when the skinny pig needs something then when they finish the task they just press the button and the reminder stops.

I think that this works wonderfully for children in the six to eleven age range who may just need the extra reminder until it becomes habit. The younger kids love that it gives their pet a voice and they enjoy feeling like they are doing a great job when it tells them how happy it is.
Over all I found this well worth the investment and a fun way for kids to tackle the responsibility of owning a pet.

(It should be noted that the care and well being of any animal in a house hold must be the responsibility of an adult. As wonderful as teaching a child how to care for another living thing it is still our job to check daily that the animals basic care is being met and to take over if the child is unwilling or unable to do it.)

Werewolves are skinny pigs that are born hairless to hairless parents but as they grow more and more hair will emerge. In the end they end up looking like a missing link between furry and hairless guinea pigs. Breeders are working hard at editing out our “Werewolf “skinny pigs but they do occur. They do have a wonderful charm all their own that is hard not to fall in love with. They can have a light coating of bristly/curly hair all over the body or even just patches usually starting around the head and radiate out from their. Typically they do not develop fur on their belly’s making them very kissable.

A Werewolf Skinny Pig

This is a question I get alot. Skinny pigs do not smell any worse than a normal guinea pig and some people think they smell better. I believe this idea got started from the fact that skinny pigs have a faster metabolism than a normal guinea pig do to their lack of hair.  This means that they must eat alot more than a normal guinea pig to keep their little hairless body’s warm.  As you can guess eating more means pooping more and I do recommend cleaning a skinny pigs cage twice a week instead of the once weekly clean needed for furry guinea pigs. But if you keep up with the cage cleaning then no, they do not smell.

Picking the right harness can be intimidating. There is a large selection of sizes and styles. We will cover fit and style. We hope this will help guide our clients in picking the right harness for their hairless friend.

Style is important. A collar and lead like you would use on a dog is not sufficient for small animals like skinny pigs. If you use a collar and it’s to tight they will chock themselves by pulling to hard or if the collar is loose they will just slip out of it and dash off. A Harness that loops both around the neck and body are much safer and easier to use.

The skinny pig will be leading you not you walking the skinny pig so leash length and style is also important it should be long enough to reach the ground and give the the ability to walk a couple of feet away from you. Leashes that are to long can allow your skinny pig to wonder to faraway A retractable leash it to strong for a skinny pigs and can jerk them off their feet.

Size and fit is important you want the harness to be snug enough that the pig will not get tangled in it. I like to make sure I can easily fit my pinkie finger between the skin and collar that way it is not tight.

comfort harness

The comfort harness for small animals
We use this one and the Velcro makes it’s easy to put on but you have to connect the clips if you want to walk them safely out doors. The color mostly Pink which can put some boys off of using it. The leash is comfortable and is elastic so it will stretch as your skinny pig walks around but is not to long so the won’t get tangled. We like this one best over all.

In the summer a lot of people travel which often leads to our pets traveling with us. Traveling with small animals can be difficult but a little information can make the trip go more smoothly. Over all I recommend people find sitters to care for them while they are gone. Some of the places we visit on vacation are just not safe for pets. Of course sometimes you need or want to travel with them. If you are traveling with your piggies how you are traveling is very important– flying, driving etc.

Flying
First you will have to check with the airline and make sure that they will fly skinny pigs. Then you have to see if they can fly in the cabin or if they have to ride in the cargo hold. The cargo hold is considered less stressful than in cabin flying. It is heated and air conditioned but most importantly it is dark and quiet compared with the noisy cabin. Most pets just take a nap. Still, people seem to prefer in cabin but remember that counts as a carry on and you will have to check more bags plus you should not remove the carrier from under the seat during the flight to “comfort” you skinny pig. You will just stress them out more. I find that it is owners who are the ones looking for comforting not the pets.
Second you can only fly if the temperatures are in a safe range. That can mean that you may find out when you arrive the airport that the pet can not fly due to temp. It is your job to call the airline the day before and check if it is safe for them to fly. You will have to be flexible on when you arrive to your destination.
All animals need a health certificate to fly. You will have to go to your vet and they check your animal and fill out the form. The health cert is only good for ten days so can’t get it a couple of weeks before your trip. You will have to fit it in the same week your traveling. It will be expected when you check in at the front deck and they will tape a copy to the top of the kennel with other information.
The type of kennel you choose is very important.  It needs to be rated for flying; if you look closely at the tags it will state whether it is airline approved. Also look to make sure it comes with a food and water dish. Flights can be long and skinny pigs need to eat and drink often. You will want a small bag of extra food taped to the top and a small water bottle filled and secured to the front.

Lastly you must arrive two hours before your flight if you are traveling with a pet. If you are late and show up an hour before your flight they will send your pet on a later flight!  A lot of people hate waiting at airports. Bring a good book and be prepared to spend up to an hour getting the kennel weighed, paper work filled out, and filed. I know as that is how long it takes me on average when I fly my pets.

Bob in a Carrier

Driving
Cage or carrier?  That is often the question we face and I just bring a smaller sized travel cage. All of the bowls and water bottles need to be locked in place so they can’t move around. The easiest thing to do is to take everything out except the bedding.  This includes the food bowl.  Then lock the water bottle on the side and just put the food loose on the floor. That way nothing will shift that could injure your piggies.
Also some piggies can get car sick.  Sometimes a small kennel fan blowing air around helps. Just remember we do not want them getting cold so always include a sleep sack. The cage needs a good lock.  You do not want doors or lids opening unexpectedly. Do not take them out in the car. I know for a fact that it is very expensive to have your driver side chair removed and the foam ripped out to retrieve a piggies who got out. The mechanic will get it but your chair may be destroyed in the process. The pig was fine, but not the car.

Bring a large two liter bottle of what ever water you use at home. A change in water could make them ill by giving them loose stool. Don’t forget to pack plenty of clean bedding and food. Never put them on the ground outside when traveling. Hotels use law services who put down harmful chemicals. Do not trust your friends or families lawns they may think because they put the treatment down months ago it is safe but many of the lawn products are time-released.

Bob in a harness

Many hotels allow pets, but always call ahead of time to check. If you are finding one last minute don’t mention the piggies. We know it will not damage the room and you do not want to be driving when you are over-tired because they said no. Try to plan your stops so that does not become a problem.
Hotels are great and often once the car is unpacked you want to give you pig some attention and time to run. Letting them run on the floor or on the bed may seem like a good idea. Skinny pigs are sensitive to chemicals and they can develop a rash and even sneezing issues. What I like to do is rinse the tub with warm water and dry it off with a towel then with the tub dry let the piggies loose. Take the towel out, it too could trigger a reaction. Never leave them alone in the tub; once play time is done place them back in the travel cage. Not every piggies will have a reaction to new detergents and cleaners. But I try not to take risks while traveling. Not being near my local vet means a rash or reaction would be difficult to treat and could even mean having to go to an emergency clinic in the area.
Lastly check the laws of the states you will be driving through, some states require health cert. on pets traveling through the region you may even have to show it in the pet friendly hotels.

Summer is here and many of us are looking forward to enjoying the great out doors with our skinny pigs. Here are some of the basics on what you should and should not do with your piggies.

Do get a harness or play pen to keep you piggies safe while enjoying the summer fun.

Don’t let you piggies on the grass unless you know it has not been treated with pesticides or other chemicals. These can cause illness and death if ingested.

Do let you piggies lead you around on a harness, never pull them. They will not follow like a dog.

Don’t put sun block on their skin. They can burn easily just keep them in the shade, sun block can cause skin rashes.

The biggest thing you should always remember is to never leave you skinny pig unattended outside even in a play pen. Everything eats  piggies including birds, cats, dogs ext. With a little bit of knowledge you can include your skinny pigs into your summer plans.
Have a safe and happy summer!

Bin Cages

Bin cages have a lot of uses and travel can be one of them. If you keep your holes to the top a cat can not bat at them like they can in barred cages. It can be easier to travel with and keep at a friend’s house than your huge every day cage. As long as you keep your skinny pig well stocked with hay, chewing on the plastic is not an issue. A well maintained skinny pig has no reason to chew on the cage. I have never had a problem with it; they are not hamsters or rats and do not chew that much.

Lets get started– a large bin is important, one that will travel well but provide enough space.  Always get the biggest bin that will fit these needs. It should be the clear type so you can keep an eye on them and they get plenty of light. Consider getting a small pet play pen that folds down.  It is a great place for them to play safely.

You will need a

• 1 drill with a  1″ spade bit
• 1/2″ spade bit
• Rotozip or Dremel with a cutting drill bit
• water bottle
• bin feeder
• small bungee cord

Most of it can be done simply with a drill. If you prefer a bowl to feed your piggie then  you will not need any other tool than the drill and 1″ bit.

Tools you will need

Start by marking your bin on the long side with a marker these will be your guide for the 1″ drilled air holes.

A marked bin

Use your 1″ spade drill bit to drill on your marks, creating air holes along the top of the cage.  Note-do not push on the drill as you would when working with wood you will crack your bin. Let gravity do the work turn the bin on its side and allow it to drill through without adding pressure.

Hole cutting drill bit 1"

Drilling the holes in the bin

Next you will repeat this on the other side. Then you will have to pick the end you want to hang the water bottle from. Once you have picked the side measure 2″ up from the bottom of the bin on one side of the carrying handle. Place a mark there this will be the spout hole. Make sure it is at least 2″ off the bottom, or the spout may touch the bedding and leak.  Then place two holes about 2″ from the top of your bin for the bungee to hold the water bottle in place. I have never had a water bottle get knocked off with this set up.

Marks for drilling holes for the water bottle

Closeup of marks

Drill out these hoes with either your 1″ bit or you an use a 1/2 ” depending on you preference. If you do not want to use a bin feeder than drill 4 air holes on the other short side of the bin and skip down to drilling the top. If you are using a bin feeder than get out your marker and trace your feeder bins front 2″ from the bottom of you bin. Your feeder will be on the same side as your water bottle.

Marking the place for the bin feeder

They are on the same side

Use the Rotozip to cut out the square for the bin feeder.

Hole cut for bin feeder

Then mark the placement of the holes for the bin feeders hangers.

Marking the bin for the bin feeders hangers

Drill the holes with the 1″ hole cutting drill bit

Finished cuts for the bin feeder

Drill 5 air holes in the opposite side of the bin

Air holes on the other side

Now it is time for the top make the top with a marker to keep from putting your holes to close together.

Marked Top

Now drill them with the 1″  spade bit. Then you should have your finished cage like the one in the photo.

Finished bin

It only takes a short time to know that food makes your skinny pig happy but they need more than food treats and cuddles.
This is where purchasing a play pen can be very helpful. They offer canvas floors for the large animal size. I like to hook two small play pens together and use the canvas bottom to hold the shavings. This is a safe place to allow your skinny pig to run and explore there environment. Card board tubes, huts and boxes with various holes cut in them can be a great environment. I like to stuff hay in at least one of the boxes and hide fresh Green around the play pen. Using paper cups you can try and hide there favorite veggies under and see how long it takes them to tip it over and find them. I must warn you some cavies are smarter than others. I have ones that get to it right way and others that i always have to leave a little piece of veg. Sticking out or they would never find it. Some skinny pigs enjoy pushing around small cat balls that make noise. Mine will push it and listen to the jingle then he will whee in response to the sound. I have no idea if he is talking to it or just joining in the noise making but he will do this for a couple of minutes before getting board and moving on to a different activity. Keeping there little minds busy will help them from getting board and that leads to a happier healthier pet.

play pen